Wheels pick up brake dust, road grime and tar that a regular car wash won't remove. Brake dust contains hot metal particles that bake onto the finish and can pit it over time, so cleaning your wheels regularly keeps them looking new. Always clean wheels and tires before washing the paint.
What you'll need
- A wheel cleaner that's safe for your wheels. A pH-balanced or non-acid cleaner is safe on almost every finish: Koch Chemie Magic Wheel Cleaner, ADS Wheel Cleaner or Nanoskin Non-Acid Wheel & Tire Cleaner.
- An iron remover for embedded brake dust (it turns purple as it works): CarPro IronX or Gtechniq W6 Iron Remover.
- A dedicated tire cleaner: CarPro ReTyre or ADS Tire Cleaner.
- Wheel brushes: a long barrel brush like the Wheel Woolies 3-Piece Set, a soft face brush like the Vikan Rim Brush Soft, and a small detail brush for lug nuts such as the Detail Factory Ultra Soft Brush.
- A stiff tire brush: Detail Factory ProGrip Tire Brush.
- A separate wheel bucket and old microfiber towels. Never use your paint mitt or towels on wheels.
- Tire dressing for the finishing touch: ADS Tire+, P&S Full Send or Shine Supply Decked Out, applied with a Tire Dressing Brush.
Step 1: Make sure the wheels are cool
Never spray cleaner on hot wheels right after driving. The cleaner can dry instantly and stain the finish. Wait until the wheels are cool to the touch, and work in the shade.
Step 2: Rinse
Rinse the wheel face, the barrel (inside of the wheel), the tire and the wheel well with a strong stream of water to remove loose dirt.
Step 3: Clean the tires first
Spray tire cleaner on the tire sidewall and scrub with the stiff tire brush. Brown foam means old dressing and grime are coming off. Keep scrubbing and rinsing until the foam turns white. Clean tires help your dressing last much longer.
Step 4: Spray wheel cleaner and let it dwell
Spray wheel cleaner over the wheel face, barrel and lug nuts. Let it dwell for the time on the label, usually 1 to 3 minutes, but don't let it dry. For heavy brake dust, use an iron remover instead or as a follow-up. You'll see it bleed purple as it dissolves the iron particles.
Step 5: Agitate with brushes
- Use the long barrel brush to reach inside the wheel behind the spokes.
- Use the soft face brush on the front of the wheel.
- Use the small detail brush around the lug nuts, valve stem and logo.
Dip your brushes in your wheel bucket as you go to keep them wet and rinse away grit.
Step 6: Rinse thoroughly
Rinse the wheel, barrel, tire and wheel well completely. Then move to the next wheel. Doing one wheel at a time keeps cleaner from drying.
Step 7: Dry and dress
Dry the wheels with a dedicated wheel towel to avoid water spots. Once the tires are dry, apply a thin, even coat of tire dressing with an applicator or tire brush. Wipe off any excess so it doesn't sling onto your paint when you drive.
Which wheel cleaner should I use?
- Painted, clear-coated or chrome wheels (most cars): pH-balanced or non-acid cleaners, plus an iron remover as needed.
- Bare polished aluminum, raw or damaged wheels: use only gentle, pH-neutral cleaners and test in a small hidden spot first.
- Acid wheel cleaners are for heavy commercial and truck use only. They can permanently damage many finishes if used incorrectly.
Keep them clean longer
A wheel sealant or ceramic wheel coating makes brake dust much easier to rinse off. Ask us about options for your wheels.
Not sure which cleaner is safe for your wheels? Call us at (626) 656-6226 or stop by the store at 9121 Garvey Ave, Rosemead.
Next up: How to Wash Your Car Safely: The Two-Bucket Method.